At a young age of 16, Nhat Viet developed an interest in fashion while shopping with his family in Hanoi, a practice that would shape his future professional life. Viet found himself drawn towards clothing and fashion, a realization that came to him when an orange gown he had chosen for his mother was later seen worn by Beyoncé.
A decade later, Viet’s natural flair for fashion led to the creation of Subtle Le Nguyen, a renowned fashion label in Vietnam. Established in 2014, the brand, initially a self-funded venture, has grown into a recognized name in fashion circuits, including popular platforms like Ssense and Moda Operandi. It even found its way into the wardrobe of Kylie Jenner for Coachella, marking a significant milestone in its journey.
Despite this recognition, Viet maintains that he did not create Subtle Le Nguyen for fame, but rather for the sheer love and passion he has for fashion and creativity.
Vietnam’s fashion industry has always been a reliable partner to global brands like Uniqlo, Zara, and H&M, known for its precise and efficient manufacturing. However, a new wave of Vietnamese designers, including Viet, are now focusing on establishing their own brands that reflect their culture, identity, and artistic expression, rather than just production volumes.
Initially, Viet faced financial constraints that limited his ability to experiment with designs. He had to settle for simple collections and carefully chosen fabrics. However, his vision remained steadfast – to build a space where he, along with others, can freely express ideas and experiment with different garment-making techniques.
Subtle Le Nguyen stays true to its name, reflecting quiet, thoughtful designs that are laden with emotion. The designs mirror the tranquil and introspective nature of Hanoi, Viet’s hometown, with a muted color palette of soft taupes, faded olives, and dusted creams.
Viet often incorporates Vietnamese traditions into his designs, merging them with contemporary fashion. He draws inspiration from various cultural elements, including traditional rituals, the way people interact with their clothes, and even unexpected objects such as a ceramic vase or an accordion.
Sustainability is also central to Subtle’s philosophy, although Viet prefers to talk about its longevity and intention, rather than using the term ‘sustainability’ outright.
When the COVID-19 pandemic struck, Subtle faced a challenging period with retail sales freezing and rent pressures mounting. However, a silver lining appeared when the brand was chosen by Ssense and Moda Operandi to join their global online platforms. This opportunity provided Subtle Le Nguyen with essential exposure, placing it among the ranks of independent designers worldwide.
Despite the economic downturn, rising production costs, and unpredictability of global retail, Viet remains committed to building relationships with customers and retailers, and improving customer service.
Looking ahead, Viet has ambitious plans, including hosting an independent fashion show internationally, with Paris as the dream location. However, he also acknowledges the uncertainty that lies ahead. His ultimate dream is for Subtle Le Nguyen to be more recognisable and accessible to people around the world.
What led to the creation of Subtle Le Nguyen?
Nhat Viet, at a young age, developed a keen interest in fashion while shopping with his family. He later turned his passion into a career, establishing Subtle Le Nguyen.
What makes Subtle Le Nguyen stand out in the fashion industry?
The brand reflects traditional Vietnamese culture and contemporary design. It follows a philosophy of sustainability, focusing on the longevity and intention behind each garment.
What does the future hold for Subtle Le Nguyen?
Despite the uncertainty in the fashion industry, Viet plans to improve customer service, build relationships with customers and retailers, and launch an independent fashion show internationally. He hopes to make Subtle Le Nguyen more recognisable and accessible worldwide.
