Under the scorching midday sun, models strutted around a circular runway, donning oversized gowns, capacious capes, and trousers encrusted with ostrich feathers. This dramatic display marked designer Pierpaolo Piccioli’s debut haute couture collection in Paris, showcased on a sweltering Wednesday.
Piccioli’s collection, designed for the autumn/winter season, comprised rich cashmere coats, elongated leather gloves, and feather-laden gowns. As the heatwave intensified in the city, these magnificent creations gracefully passed by spectators who were attempting to cool down by fanning themselves.
The collection featured dresses with expansive balloon hems and jackets with curved backs, a nod to the unconventional, architectural fashion that Cristobal Balenciaga, the brand’s founder, was renowned for. Piccioli, with his 16-year tenure as creative director for Valentino under his belt, took the reins at Balenciaga a year prior and is keen to leave his imprint on the brand. His task is to balance the legacy of his predecessor, Demna, who during his 10-year stint introduced streetwear phenomena such as “ugly” oversized sneakers.
Balenciaga, a component of the Kering luxury group, might be one of the smaller fashion houses, but it shares the limelight with other illustrious brands such as Gucci, Yves Saint Laurent, and Bottega Veneta. In 2020, the fashion house revived its haute couture collection, which had been on a hiatus since 1968.
The show concluded with Piccioli’s appearance, accompanied by 30 of his key creative team members, all clad in white lab coats. They received a round of applause. The front-row attendees included renowned actors Demi Moore and Cynthia Erivo, with Kering’s CEO, Luca de Meo, also observing the spectacle that unfolded across the gardens of the historic Cite Universitaire student housing complex.
Who is Pierpaolo Piccioli?
Piccioli is a renowned fashion designer who previously served as the creative director of Valentino for 16 years. He took over Balenciaga a year ago.
What constituted the primary theme of Piccioli’s debut collection for Balenciaga?
Piccioli’s debut collection was characterized by oversized forms and unconventional, architectural fashion, reminiscent of the styles that Cristobal Balenciaga, the brand’s founder, was known for.
When did Balenciaga reinstate its haute couture collection?
Balenciaga reinstated its haute couture collection in 2020, after a hiatus that began in 1968.
