The fashion world is in mourning following the death of Giorgio Armani, who passed away on September 4 at the age of 91, leaving behind an empire that industry analysts value between 5 billion and 12 billion euros (approximately US$5.9 billion to US$14 billion). Known as “King Giorgio,” the designer had no children to inherit his renowned label.
According to his will, priority for the estate is to be given to luxury giant LVMH, beauty behemoth L’Oréal, eyewear leader EssilorLuxottica, or another qualified group identified by a foundation he established to preserve his legacy. Notably, this was done in collaboration with Armani’s business and life partner, Pantaleo Dell’Orco. All three companies acknowledged their openness to exploring potential arrangements.
The mention of stake sales and the inclusion of well-known French companies as possible buyers came as a surprise, considering Armani’s longstanding commitment to maintaining control over his fashion group—a brand that continues to retain significant prestige, even amid a global luxury slowdown.
LVMH, led by billionaire Bernard Arnault, expressed gratitude to be mentioned in Armani’s will. “Giorgio Armani honors us by naming us as a potential partner for the exceptional fashion house he has built,” Arnault stated. He suggested that if a partnership were to materialize, LVMH would be dedicated to bolstering its presence globally.
EssilorLuxottica, closely linked to Armani through commercial partnerships, also indicated a willingness to consider a potential deal. Meanwhile, L’Oréal, which currently holds a licensing agreement with the Armani group until 2050, revealed plans to explore this new opportunity. It’s quite the fashion ‘who’s who’ vying for a piece of the pie, with all eyes on the future.
Analysts believe that LVMH is likely the most interested party in acquiring a stake in Armani, emphasizing the strategic alignment between their businesses. They estimate that a stake could be valued between 5 billion and 7 billion euros, and LVMH appears well-positioned financially to proceed if an opportunity arises.
Armani’s will, comprised of two documents filed earlier this year, stipulates that heirs should sell an initial 15% stake in the fashion house within 18 months of his passing. A further transfer of an additional 30% to 54.9% stake is to follow three to five years thereafter, emphasizing a structured approach to the transition of control. Alternatively, an initial public offering (IPO) may be pursued if the heirs prefer different exit strategies.
These provisions are largely binding and could be subject to challenges in court if unmet, according to Italian legal experts. Known for revolutionizing modern fashion with his minimalist approach to jackets and suits, Armani had rebuffed several acquisition attempts over the years, including approaches from Gucci and John Elkann of the Agnelli family.
Maintaining a firm grip on both creative and operational leadership, Armani has left a business generating stable revenues—an impressive 2.3 billion euros (around US$2.7 billion) in 2024—but one struggling with shrinking profits, now less than 3% of revenue according to Berenberg’s calculations.
The will details various share types with different voting rights, ensuring that the Fondazione Giorgio Armani and Dell’Orco together control a significant 70% of the company. The foundation is committed to holding no less than 30% of the capital, serving as a safeguard of Armani’s founding principles, and is tasked with proposing a successor to lead the group.
While the world waits to see what direction Armani’s heirs will take, one thing is clear: the legacy of Giorgio Armani will continue to influence fashion on a global scale.
What are the estimated values of Giorgio Armani’s fashion empire?
The fashion empire is estimated to be worth between 5 billion and 12 billion euros (approximately US$5.9 billion to US$14 billion).
Who are the potential buyers mentioned in Armani’s will?
The potential buyers include luxury conglomerate LVMH, beauty giant L’Oréal, and eyewear leader EssilorLuxottica, with the possibility of other equally qualified groups being considered.
What does Armani’s will stipulate regarding the transfer of ownership?
The will requires heirs to sell an initial 15% stake within 18 months of Armani’s death, followed by an additional 30% to 54.9% stake within three to five years, or to pursue an IPO if preferred.
